I am experienced at sewing, but with my Brother machine, and a used Kenmore machine I have fixed up for my sister, they occasionally skip stitches on knits. I bought a 1970’s vintage Bernina at an auction recently, and tuned that up, and it NEVER skips stitches (so far, just got it a couple months ago and not used it much yet). My newer Brother machine (circa 1990) has an automatic buttonholer though, so I would still like to use it sometimes, and I would like to set up multiple machines for production sewing at times. Also, my sister uses her 1970’s Kenmore that I tuned up, to sew knits, but she also gets occasional skipped stitches.
Seems like the machines skip stitches when sewing with the stretch of the fabric, such as hemming a shirt or putting elastic on underwear, etc. I usually am using Tshirt type fabric that is 100% cotton or cotton-poly.
I slowed down, that helped somewhat, I have used ballpoint, stretch, all purpose needles, from Schmetz mostly, but other brands too. Makes no difference what brand, the two machines skip stitches. I use Guterman thread, no difference. Stretch the fabric a bit as I sew, no help. I would say I get a skipped stitch every couple inches, so it’s a disaster if I were topstitching or hemming. I fooled around with tension, no help.
Is there some adjustment I need to make on the sewing machines? The Bernina works GREAT on knits, and these other machines, I can’t get it right. Until I got the Bernina, I did as much on my serger as I could. Now I can topstitch on knits and stuff, happy me.
tx for any tips!
PS if you know how to sew that slinky metallic doubleknit such as used for dance costumes, that would really help too. It’s some kind of lycra, I think. Metallic on the front, black on the back. Skipped stitches galore! I am unable to sew it on a regular sewing machine at ALL and must use the serger for everything, which is difficult because I sew doll clothes.
Skipped stitches on knits are, as you inferred, due to the fabric bouncing up and down with the needle like a trampoline. This is called “fabric flagging”. Slowing down helps, but the machine adjustment that tends to help most is a straight stitch plate for the machine if you’re straight stitching, or at least being able to move the needle to one edge or the other of the needleplate hole on a zigzag machine. Betcha your Bernie has a narrower maximum zigzag width than the Brother or Kenmore. And, as you say, slowing down helps.
The other thing that really helps is stabilizing the seamline before sewing it. Stick some water soluble embroidery stabilizer or paper above and/or below the seam before you sew. Or starch the heck out of the fabric. Wash or tear off the stabilizer when you’re done sewing the seam. You’ll need some sort of a ballpoint needle when sewing knits, but it just seems to be trial and error as to whether a Universal, Stretch or Jersey point will work best with each fabric.
At a guess, Jersey or Universal seems to work well for most jersey knits; with increasing amounts of lycra, the Stretch points tend to be better choices.
If you haven’t looked at different needles up close and personal: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/17206792 — there really are a lot of differences between needle styles.
On fabric flagging — http://sewusa.com/Sewing_Machine_Repair/Sewing%20Machine%20Stitch%20formation.htm
Best book I know on sewing knits: http://www.worldcat.org/title/sewing-with-knits-classic-stylish-garments-from-swimsuits-to-eveningwear/oclc/42397098/editions?editionsView=true&referer=br